There’s something incredibly satisfying about digging into the soil and pulling out a potato that you planted with your own hands just a few months earlier.
Over the years, I’ve experimented with different methods—planting in the ground, in raised beds, and even in containers on my balcony—and each season has taught me a little more about what these humble tubers need to thrive.
From selecting the right seed potatoes to managing pests and knowing exactly when to harvest, growing potatoes has become one of my favorite garden traditions.
In this guide, I’m sharing everything I’ve learned through experience, so you can avoid common mistakes, enjoy the process, and end the season with a healthy, hearty harvest of your own.
Step 1: Understanding Potatoes and Their Growing Cycle
Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) are cool-season crops that grow best in loose, well-drained soil with full sunlight. They form tubers underground, and the health of the plant above ground plays a crucial role in the size and quality of your harvest.
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Ideal temperature for growth: 60°F to 70°F (15°C to 21°C)
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Frost sensitivity: Highly frost-sensitive; protect young shoots from late frosts.
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Time to maturity: Depends on variety—anywhere from 70 to 135 days.
Step 2: Choosing the Right Potato Variety
Not all potatoes are created equal. Your choice depends on your climate, how you want to cook the potatoes, and when you want to harvest.
Common Potato Types:
Type | Examples | Days to Maturity | Texture | Best For |
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Early | Red Norland, Yukon Gold | 70–90 days | Waxy | Boiling, Roasting |
Mid-Season | Kennebec, Purple Viking | 90–110 days | All-purpose | Mashing, Roasting |
Late | Russet Burbank, Desiree | 110–135 days | Starchy | Baking, Frying |
Step 3: Preparing Your Seed Potatoes
You should always start with certified seed potatoes—these are disease-free and bred for growing, unlike store-bought ones which may be treated with sprout inhibitors.
Cutting Seed Potatoes:
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Cut large seed potatoes into pieces, each with 1–2 eyes (buds).
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Leave small ones (egg-sized) whole.
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Let cut pieces cure for 1–3 days in a warm, dry place. This helps form a protective callus over the cut surface.
Step 4: Soil Preparation and Site Selection
Potatoes love loose, deep, fertile soil. They need space for their tubers to develop underground.
Soil Checklist:
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Depth: At least 8–12 inches
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pH Level: 5.0 to 6.5 (acidic helps prevent scab)
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Drainage: Excellent—never let potatoes sit in soggy soil
Improve Soil With:
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Aged compost
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Well-rotted manure
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Sand (to loosen clay-heavy soil)
Avoid fresh manure or recently limed soil, which can cause scab.
Step 5: Planting Potatoes
Option A: In-Ground or Raised Bed Planting
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Dig trenches 6–8 inches deep, spaced 2–3 feet apart.
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Place seed potatoes cut-side down, eyes facing up, 12 inches apart.
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Cover with 3 inches of soil initially.
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As the shoots grow, hill soil around the plants every 2–3 weeks to bury the lower stem and encourage more tubers.
Option B: Container or Grow Bag Planting
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Choose a container at least 16 inches deep.
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Fill the bottom 4 inches with soil.
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Plant 3–5 seed potatoes per 15-gallon bag.
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As plants grow, keep adding soil to cover stems, leaving only the top few inches visible.
Step 6: Caring for Your Potato Plants
Potatoes are low-maintenance but need consistent attention to thrive.
Watering:
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Water deeply once or twice a week.
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Maintain even moisture, especially during tuber formation (flowering period).
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Avoid waterlogging.
Fertilizing:
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Apply balanced fertilizer when planting (10-10-10).
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After hilling, apply a side dressing of compost or a low-nitrogen fertilizer.
Pest & Disease Control:
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Common pests: Colorado potato beetle, aphids, flea beetles
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Diseases: Early and late blight, scab, blackleg
Use row covers early in the season and practice crop rotation to prevent build-up of soil-borne diseases.
Step 7: Flowering & Tuber Formation
When the plant begins to flower, tubers are forming underground. This is a sign to:
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Reduce nitrogen fertilizing
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Maintain even moisture
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Start planning for harvest
Step 8: Harvesting Potatoes
New Potatoes:
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Harvest 2–3 weeks after flowering starts
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Gently dig near the base of the plant
Mature Potatoes:
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Wait until the foliage yellows and dies back
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Stop watering 1–2 weeks before harvesting
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Use a garden fork to dig around the base and lift the tubers
Let them cure in a shaded, dry space for 7–10 days before storing.
Step 9: Storage and Long-Term Care
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Store in a cool (45–55°F), dark, and humid place
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Avoid plastic bags; use burlap or breathable bins
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Do not wash until ready to use
Storage Lifespan:
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Early potatoes: 1–2 months
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Main crop potatoes: Up to 6 months
Bonus Tips for Successful Potato Growing
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Rotate your crops every year to prevent disease.
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Don’t reuse soil from previous potato or tomato crops.
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Monitor for green tubers—cut them off or discard.
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Use mulch or straw to help control weeds and conserve water.
FAQs: How to Plant Potatoes
1. Can I plant store-bought potatoes?
You can, but it’s not recommended. Store-bought potatoes may be treated with chemicals to prevent sprouting and can carry diseases. It’s safer to use certified seed potatoes from a garden center.
2. How many potatoes will one plant produce?
On average, one seed potato can yield 4 to 8 potatoes, depending on the variety, soil quality, and growing conditions.
3. When is the best time to plant potatoes?
Plant 2 to 4 weeks before your last expected frost, when soil temperature reaches at least 45°F (7°C). In warmer climates, potatoes can also be grown in fall and winter.
4. Do potatoes need full sun?
Yes, potatoes need at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day for optimal growth and tuber development.
5. What kind of soil do potatoes need?
They prefer loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.0 to 6.5). Heavy clay soil can be improved with compost and sand.
6. How deep should I plant potatoes?
Plant seed potatoes 6 to 8 inches deep in trenches or containers. Cover with 3–4 inches of soil initially, then hill additional soil around the plants as they grow.
7. What is “hilling,” and why is it important?
Hilling means piling soil around the stems of the potato plant. It supports the plant, keeps tubers covered and prevents them from turning green and toxic from sun exposure. It also encourages more tuber formation.
8. How often should I water potatoes?
Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. 1–2 inches of water per week is ideal, especially during flowering when tubers are forming.
9. Can I grow potatoes in containers?
Absolutely! Use a deep container or grow bag (at least 16 inches tall). Add soil gradually as the plant grows, and ensure good drainage.
10. When do I harvest potatoes?
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For new potatoes, harvest 2–3 weeks after flowering.
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For main crop potatoes, wait until the vines turn yellow and die back, then dig and cure the potatoes.
11. Why are some of my potatoes green?
Green skin means they were exposed to sunlight and developed solanine, a toxic compound. These should not be eaten. Prevent this by hilling soil and keeping tubers covered.
12. How do I store potatoes after harvesting?
Let them cure in a cool, dry place for 1–2 weeks, then store in a dark, well-ventilated area at 45–55°F. Do not wash them until you’re ready to use them.
13. Do I need to rotate crops if I grow potatoes every year?
Yes. Rotate where you plant potatoes (and other nightshades like tomatoes and peppers) every 2–3 years to avoid soil-borne diseases and pests.